Als Antwort auf: Re: Ölwechsel mit Ölfilterwechsel von Tom (HH) am 17. März 2004 23:49:31:

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Tja, schon mal Danke für alle Antworten! Dass der Ölfilter auf jeden Fall mitgewechselt werden sollte (jährlich bzw. alle 20tkm) hielt ich für selbstverständlich. (beim alten Lada mit billigstem Baumarktöl habe 2x jährich Öl, aber nur jährlich Filter gewechselt und der Motor war das letzte, was am Schluss noch funktionierte

Es scheint allerdings eher eine Glaubensfrage zu sein, ob das Absaugen gut ist oder nicht! Mir wäre eher ein einer wirklich technischen Antwort gelegen: ist der Punkt unterhalb des Peilstabrohres der tiefste Punkt in der Ölwanne? Sozusagen direkt neben der Ablassschraube? Dann sollte es doch egal sein, ob das Altöl nach oben oder unten rausfließt! Bei meiner Absaugstation ist das Wechseln des Ölfilters mit etwas kleckern durchaus erlaubt, aber so 3-4 Liter Öl in den Abscheider laufen lassen, das wäre wohl zu viel des Guten! Deshalb Filterwechsel in Kombination mit Absaugen. (es ist eben doch lästig - so wie ich mich aus Entenzeiten erinnern kann - dass einem das 80°C warme Öl beim Schrauberausdrehen über die Finger läuft und man die Schraube hinterher aus dem Ölauffangbehälter fischen muss.)

Aber ob wir hier tatsächlich zu einem "Ergebnis" kommen werden???

Gut geölte Fahrt wünscht
Rolf

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Als Antwort auf: Re: Ölwechsel selbst gemacht von Tom (HH) am 18. März 2004 23:27:21:

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Hello Kangoo fans!
Oil! ...
I studied mechanical engineering for a while and my father in law is THE expert in engines and vehicles.
From the two resources I have got some idea about what lubrication means
for the performance and endurance of an engine.
... I never economized on oil and it certainly paid back. The cars fell apart while the engines stayed forever young.
What I did most carefully was changing oil and filters.
I would never have it done in a garage BECAUSE THEY SUCK THE OIL UP (TO SPARE TIME!!)
INSTEAD OF DRAINING IT WELL FROM THE BOTTOM OF THE OIL TANK and so the worst sediment remains on the bottom.
Further, they replace the filter with a new, empty, dry one.
It takes roughly tens of seconds before the new oil gets pushed through the new, dry filter paper
and meanwhile the engine is not lubricated. I always fill the new filter up with oil before screwing it on.
It takes some time before the filter paper soaks through and the filter can be toppled
but my love to the engine makes me patient.
Some really careful mechanics change the filters even in the middle of the oil-change intervals.
It makes sense. All the modern engines have the bypass filtration vent, that means when the filter gets stuck,
the oil gets around so that the engine cannot not seize but the oil is NOT FILTERED.
Then it works as an abrasive. The method I learned from a meticulous mechanic is this:
I let the engine (oil) warm up to maximum untill the cooling ventilator switches on
and then I drain it (of course through the draining plug). ...
Then I insert a rope of wool through the draining hole onto the bottom of the oil tank,
protruding out and let it suck out all the thick black sediment through the night.
In the morning I am sure to find the oil tank really clean. Then I do the ritual with the filter and fill up the new oil.
Then I start the engine and listen with satisfaction to its thank you expressed with the Swiss watch sound.
I am quite convinced that when the oil is sucked up through the dip-stick hole,
most of the sediment stays in and pollutes the new oil immediately.
When I bought the Kangoo, brand new, I did not follow the advice of the dealer (thank God),
who said do not worry and change the oil after 30.000km only. I did it after 11.000km.
To my very unpleasant surprise I found quite big metal particles on the bottom of the oil filter when I emptied it.
I even regretted a little that I had not changed the first oil even a bit earlier.
I changed the second oil after another 28.000km and the particles I found were not that bad any more.
Now I use the highest degree oil (fully synthetic 0W – 40) and I believe it protects the engine more securely in winter.
Maybe it is a paradox, I am happy with the small engine for its economy (under 6 l / 100 km),
on the other hand I do not hesitate to give it the best oil and quite some time of soothing care.
In exchange I expect its long and devoted services.
Vladimir from Prague ...

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Hello Vladimir,
this was one of the best articles ever written in this forum!
I hope, a lot of Kangoo drivers can read and understand English
and take benfits out of your valuable hints. Many thanks!
Greetings from rainy Northern Germany,
Tom from Hamburg.

Hello Tom!
Thank you very much for your compliment, indeed. I am not doing more than passing on what I have learned. It is certainly good to learn from old craftsmen (before the last of them dies) who used to ask themselves: "How to do it best?" rather than the nowadays universal question: "How to do it the quickest and get the most money for that?" However we are being massaged by commercials to believe that the technology changes rapidly, all the principal rules of mechanics appear to be unchangeable and they were clear to Isaac Newton three hundred years ago. Even the very latest F1 engine works on the principle of a piston moving in a cylinder and a crankshaft transmitting the power to the wheels, in other words James Watt and his steam engine. The differential in the most expensive American Hummer off-road (they start appearing in Prague now) is exactly what Mr. Deimler drew on his board some hundred years ago (or more?). Nothing new under the Sun.
Sorry, I am ill with giving lectures. Have a nice day all who happen to read this. It is getting cloudy in Prague; it looks like it is going to rain soon and the girls will probably put something over their T-shirts. That means safer driving.
Vladimir

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